GTMO: The Tale of One Woman's Travel Through Time

Not only did I travel some serious miles to make it to Guantanamo Bay (California > Texas > Bryn Mawr > Boston > Jacksonville > GTMO) but soon after I'd arrive, I realized that I had seemingly traveled through time, too. Destination? The good ol' 1980s. I know, I know, how can I, a girl who wasn't even born in that decade, claim that GTMO is like stepping into the 80s? Well, I think I've got some pretty solid evidence:

Hitchhiking: Who does THAT anymore? Oh wait, GTMO residents do. Sure, we all grew up listening to the familiar "Stranger Danger" refrain, but an even more common thought here? "It's GTMO, what could happen?" The first time a man stepped in front of my (moving!) van and asked for a ride, I was so put off that I sputtered some excuse about being late to my exercise class and kept moving. Of course, as I recounted this seemingly strange incident to my new friends, they all laughed and assured me that people asking for rides was completely normal. After all, what could happen?

GTMO Beaters: Thanks to popular media, Cuba's vast collection of old, beater cars might be one of the more well-known quirks of the island. While some people are lucky enough to bring their cars from the States with them when they move, others have to purchase their vehicles here if they want to get around easily. The constant come and go of the military community means that there are trails of cars that have been passed down between residents over time, and they've got the mystery stains and lack of A/C to prove it. And these beater cars? Most remain unlocked at all times. (Who would want to steal that thing, anyways?) Recently I saw a truck, affectionately coined "The Flamethrower" for sale. It was a screaming deal at only $500, but it also looked like it had been used for target practice at some point.

The Internet (or lack thereof): I was warned before arriving in GTMO that I'd have to get used to being "unplugged". The WiFi here is only available indoors (or close by outside), in select buildings. While I do have WiFi  in my townhouse, it isn't strong enough to support things like YouTube videos, Netflix (currently suffering through OITNB withdrawals) or Skype. If I want to do any of those "strong connection activities" I have to go to where the internet is better. Where might that be? Strangely, outside the ice cream shop (CCC) is where I've found the strongest connection. While I can't say I don't miss being able to stream video or video chat with friends, I've learned that the lack of internet means more time to actually TALK to other people, or read a book that been on your to-read list or play a board game. And I think this unpluggedness has a positive impact on family life here as well..

Family Togetherness: Without the ease of the internet to distract us all from each other, GTMO families seem to do activities together more often than families back in the States. It is almost reminiscent of a quaint small town when you see whole families together at the pool, working out in the gym, or supporting a younger sibling at a baseball game. And when they're not all together, many parents let their children run around and explore on their own. Most of the base is walkable, and of course, very safe. It's not uncommon to see gaggles of kids playing together under the bleachers while their parents watch a movie. In GTMO, the safety that a cul-de-sac back in the States might offer extends to pretty much the whole island. And with at least 10 jungle gyms and play areas scattered throughout (there's even one at the chapel!), I'd say this is a pretty good place to be a kid.

Now that you've got a pretty good impression of what GTMO is all about and how it is to live here, I'll give some updates next time about the work I've been doing for MWR and Child and Youth Programs!

Thanks for reading!

Hayley

So what's it like to live on Guantanamo Bay?

Of course, for most people, the mere mention of GTMO brings to mind all sorts of terrible images of barbed wire, detention facilities and all the worst kinds of people.  And while I’ll let you form your own opinions about that particular piece of GTMO, I am here to tell you about the other part, where families live, kids go to school and life carries on as usual. To maintain and run the detainment facility on the island, there must be a group of workers and service members here full time. And those people have families who also live here full time.  To support the needs of the base’s full time residents, GTMO has plenty of amenities. I’ve discussed some of the one’s I am more familiar with at length below:

The NEX (Navy Exchange) is like a Super Walmart but a lot less super. Either way, it is the one-stop shop for all base residents for anything from marinara sauce to diamond jewelry.

We have an outdoor movie theater, the Downtown Lyceum, which shows current movies for free every night. So far, I’ve embraced my younger side and seen How to Train Your Dragon 2. I’m still waiting for The Fault in Our Stars to make its way over, though!

For those sportier folk, there is also a bowling alley, golf course, Frisbee golf course, mini golf, plenty of sports fields and a 24/7 gym that holds free fitness classes open to all base residents. I try and go to at least one class every weekday. My favorite is the cardio kickboxing class, even though I feel really silly doing it (does ANYONE look cool punching and kicking the air?)

Because of our location, GTMO is a great place to indulge in every kind of water sport you can imagine. I’ve already gone boating twice and snorkeling once. You can also get Scuba certified on the cheap here, and you can try your hand at stand up paddle boarding, kayaking and fishing. The beaches here, while not quite white sand, are also worth a weekend trip. Ferry Landing beach and Cable Beach have cabanas to escape the brutal Cuban heat, while Windmill Beach has lounges to lay out on (a must since the beaches here are mostly rock. Girl Scout Beach and Glass Beach are great for exploring as you can find some incredible shells and pieces of sea glass there!

Just a lazy day out boating at Hospital Cay

Some green sea glass from Glass Beach! 

And after a long day hitting up the base activities, GTMO offers a variety of restaurants and fast food joints to energize you for the next round. There’s a McDonald’s, Subway, Taco Bell, Caribbean Coffee and Cream which sells ice cream and Starbucks coffee, The Jerk House (open for dinner) serving up homemade Jamaican food, The Windjammer has some more traditional American food offerings, and The Cuban Club, which seems to be a favorite of many, dishes out traditional Cuban fare with a twist (try the spaghetti!). There are also the galleys, standard on military installations, which offer buffet style food for low prices. To finish off the night, there are a couple of bar/club type joints like O’Kelly’s (supposedly the first Irish pub on communist soil) and the Tiki Bar.

Chicken meal from the Jerk House! YUM. 

While there IS plenty to do, without the ability to leave base, you can imagine how claustrophobic GTMO eventually becomes. Sometimes I feel like I’ve been plopped into a small Midwestern college town where everyone knows each other and I am the new girl.  I can’t go to the NEX without seeing a familiar face, which can be both a curse and a blessing (do I really want my boss to look into my shopping cart and see only panty liners and spaghetti squash??). But this close-knittedness certainly has it’s perks, too. Kids can run around the island at their leisure, cars remain unlocked (where, really, could anyone drive away with it?) and people aren’t afraid to start up conversations with strangers, or even give a pedestrian they don’t know a ride home.  I’ve talked to quite a few residents who have “GTMO glasses” now – they see the States as crime-ridden danger zone that makes GTMO look like an all the more appealing place to settle down. While I don’t think I would ever adopt this viewpoint, it is interesting to witness what a few years in an almost fictionalized small town can do to your opinion of home.  Still the newbie, though, I am convinced of something else – GTMO is stuck in the 80s! Stay tuned for next post where I’ll tell you why (slow internet, home phones, GTMO beaters, oh my!).

Thanks for reading,

Hayley